Most nationalities require a visa to enter India, make sure you allow enough time to have this processed before departing your home country. Visas are valid from the date of issue so take this into consideration if you plan to spend a long time in the country. It’s much safer to obtain a ‘multiple entry visa’ in case you have to leave and want to be allowed to return.
The best time to visit Gulmarg is from early January to mid March when the snow is driest. This is peak season and it’s advisable to book hotel accommodation in advance.
The easiest way to reach Gulmarg is by flight from Delhi (DEL) to Srinigar (SRX). Indira Gandhi Airport in Delhi has both an international and domestic terminal. Flights from Delhi to Srinigar take around one hour and can be booked through a number of low cost carriers such as:
Delhi International Airport has a left luggage office where you can leave souvenirs or anything you may not need in the mountains. Be aware of excess luggage costs when flying to Srinigar.
You will find airport security measures extremely tight when travelling to and from Kashmir, make sure you listen carefully to instructions. If you do not identify your bag on the tarmac prior to boarding the plane it will stay there. An official will ask which bag is yours before marking the destination tag, only then will your bag be loaded.
A 4WD taxi (Tata Sumo is the industry standard) from Srinigar airport to Gulmarg should take around one and a half hours to cover the 50km and cost approx. 1250Rs from the stand outside the airport, pre-booking a taxi may be cheaper.
It is possible to catch the local bus from Srinigar to Tangmarg with a connection to Gulmarg but don’t expect this to be easy! The bus will be crammed full, slow and you may be asked to sit on the roof. It could take hours so if you are attempting this adventure make sure you have time before nightfall.
It is possible to travel to Srinigar by bus or taxi from Jammu. Jammu sits at the base of the mountains and is accessible by rail and road to Delhi and large parts of the country. The Jammu – Srinigar highway is the only road access between the mountains and the valley and is extremely busy and dangerous. Rock slides, avalanches and road accidents claim many lives every year. Traffic jams consisting of trucks full of supplies can stretch for huge distances meaning the seemingly small distance can take hours or days. February 2008 saw hundreds of people (including some Gulmarg venturers) stranded for days on the highway due to heavy snowfall. Tensions between Hindus and Muslims led to a blockade of the highway in mid 2008 essentially starving the Kashmir Valley of supplies, it is far more reliable to fly into Srinigar.
For more information on getting to and from Gulmarg read:
If arriving late to Srinigar it is possible to stay in the town or to arrange accommodation on one of the hundreds of beautiful houseboats on Dal Lake. For anyone staying on a houseboat it is recommended to avoid booking in Delhi or other cities outside Kashmir. A severe lack of tourists means that prices can be negotiated directly with houseboat owners and massive savings achieved. Houseboat touts in Delhi are notorious for charging obscene prices and not delivering on promises.
There are only a few ski rental outlets in Gulmarg; one is private and the other government run. Ski or board rental costs around 500 - 1000Rs per day and it is a lottery as to whether you will be riding an ancient beast or a surprisingly nice rig, given that previous travellers have left a lot of gear. Boots could cost around 250Rs extra. Clothing is available to rent or can be purchased very cheaply in the villages of Gulmarg or Tangmarg (all very 80’s looking!) A small amount of safety equipment is available to rent although it is strongly advised to bring your own to avoid missing out.
The ATM (cash point) in Gulmarg is notoriously unreliable so it is advisable to bring plenty of cash. The Internet is similar so don’t expect fast reliable connections.
International phone calls can be made at some ISD booths, check your bill before you pay.
Alcohol is available in a select number of establishments in Gulmarg at inflated prices. Consider stopping for some alcohol supplies in the taxi from Srinigar to Gulmarg but bear in mind that this is a Muslim community you are visiting and drinking alcohol excessively may be viewed as disrespectful. There is a liquor store in Gulmarg adjacent to Bakshi's Restaurant selling beer, vodka, whisky rum etc.
Most hotels in Gulmarg have an attached restaurant serving mostly Indian and Kashmiri style dishes. There are small restaurants at the lower stage of the gondola and at Kongdori mid station. A take away facility serving pizzas and burgers can be found attached to Hotel Hilltop, a nice option as you’re skiing home after a day in the deep stuff. Closer to Gulmarg village there are a number of small local run tea houses, restaurants and grocery stores with basic supplies (drinks, snacks, water etc). Many foreigners find they are able to digest the water from the tap in Gulmarg unlike the rest of India where this should be avoided.
Tangmarg village has a larger variety of stores and facilities (banks, telecommunications etc). If you wish to spend some time exploring the town you can take the bus, taxi or alternatively ski down and take transport back. The restaurants here serve traditional food with prices much cheaper than those in the hotels in Gulmarg. From here it is possible to take a bus or taxi to Srinigar.
